Sunday, July 23, 2006

Shembe Part 3

Sorry for the break. Here's more.

The Shembe church is known for several things.

*worshipping in clearings on top of a hill or mountain, enclosed by a circle of white stones

*a particular style uniform, which you can see in the pictures of the first posting, but I'll include more as unmarried girls wear a different uniform than married women. The women in the picture you see are the unmarried girls. Also, interesting to note, in South Africa, most churches have uniforms. If you are Baptist, you wear one uniform; if you are Catholic, another; Zionists wear yet another uniform etc. and so on (in Zulu, etc. is "njalo njalo"). I don't know enough about the different colors to identify which color is which, but on Sundays (or sometimes Thursdays) you will see many groups of women all dressed alike on their way to church. (Thursday was the traditional day off for women who worked as housekeepers; thus, it is also still a worship day in much of Africa.)

*following traditional customs, such as polygamy

*belief in miraculous healings (on the way up the hill, we saw many jars of vaseline, which were "holy jars" because they had been blessed by Shembe himself and are supposed to impart healing powers on the body)

*casting out of spirits

*they consider themselves Christians, although in a hundred years, they have departed radically from Isaiah Shembe's original vision and most mainline denominations would probably not recognize them as theologically orthodox

*the head of the church has been passed down through four successive generations of Shembe, so they are currently on the 5th Shembe, the great-great-grandson of Isaiah Shembe. His power has accumulated so that he is now referred to as Nkosi. The word for "king" is inkosi so Nkosi without the initial 'i"would be directly addressing someone as "King" if that makes sense. This appellation is also frequently used by Christians to refer to God. I've noticed a lot of bumper stickers around that state "Shembe is the Way."

*njalo, njalo

We did get to see the Baptisms. They have a large pool, and there were several hundred people singing as they lined up to get baptized. The line extended outside the building and down the hill. Inside, the lined up in the pool, going up to the two deacons who were baptizing. Many seemed really afraid of being dunked. One girl leapt out of the water and started trying to choke the deacon who had pushed her under. It would have been funny if her fear hadn't been so tragic and palpable.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

Shembe Part 2

OK, this information is gained second hand, so I'm not going to verify all of its accuracy. Well, my overall information about African Christianity is not second-hand, since that happens to be one of my areas of specialty but Shembe is brand new to me. (Well, not entirely. The Shembe church is also in Zimbabwe, and appears in one of my all time favorite children's novels, A Girl Named Disaster by Nancy Farmer.)

An overview of information first. In the 19th century, Christian missionaries were not very successful in their efforts to convert Africans. This had a lot to do with the perception (often times true, sometimes not) that their efforts went hand-in-hand with the colonists. David Livingstone, the famous missionary to Africa, called the Christian mission to Africa as needing to bring 3 things: Christianity, Civilization, and Commerce. Because Africans were perceived as inferior by Europeans in general, and by many of the missionaries who came specifically, the detrimental policies that colonialism perpetrated were often defended by missionaries. This certainly was not always the case. Bishop Colenso, who plays an important role in some of my research, appears to have been cut from a different cloth and worked as an advocate for Africans against unjust policies. I'm being pretty vague here but I'll try to send some links in another posting. You can look him up on the web but most of the links only gives basic information.

OK, I'm running out of time here at the internet cafe, so let me explain what happened to Christianity to make it the fastest growing religion on the African continent in the 20th Century. IN the late 19th century, Africans began to leave the mission churches in growing numbers. They started their own churches, which they called Ethiopian churches, taking the Bible verse, "God will stretch his hand to Ethiopia," as their impetus. Ethiopia, by the way, often symbolically stands in for the entire continent. As soon as Africans started leading their own churches, following a kind of Christianity that made sense with their own customs, and opposing colonialism vocally and dramatically, surprise, surprise, the churches started to grow like crazy, not without sometimes violent conflict with the colonial state.

Isaiah Shembe was one of those men. He started his church in the late 19th century in South Africa, encouraging Africans to keep many of their customs but to follow the teachings of Jesus. Currently, the church has passed down through 5 generations of Shembes as the head, and it seems like the power of each successive Shembe has grown exponentially. I have a lot more to say about that but will save it since I have 3 minutes of time left on my timecard and must go.

Shembe

Long overdue, this is my post about going to Shembe. The month of July is the "holy" month for Shembe, so they were having special celebrations each Sunday during the month. The pictures you see here are dances that different congragations are doing. I wish I could have had pictures of the baptism. Instead, here are some young girls, and below are pictures of the men and of one young man in particular. Shembe is known for encouraging African traditions as well as the teachings of Jesus and the Torah, but I think now there is a Shembe Bible which may contain writings from the different Shembes. More about that in the next post. I want to get this one up without making it too large. I will be writing more in a minute.














Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Getting Carried Up Stairs











I still need to post about Shembe, including pictures, but I wanted to include these photos of two of my closest friends on the trip, Holly and Vaughn. The first picture shows Holly carrying me up stairs, which she does when my leg is really hurting or it's the third flight of stairs. I am continuously amazed at this, at how much she helps me. The second picture shows me with Holly (in the middle) and Vaughn, all decked out for Holly's 29th birthday last week. We went to the Golden Horse, a local casino/restaurant, and watched the final World Cup match.

Sunday, July 16, 2006

quick post

I will post a lot more tomorrow, including pictures, but this has been an interesting week.

First interesting thing: I went to a part of Pietermaritzburg that I haven't been to before (and probably should not go back to again). Let's put it this way--I ended up in a sangoma shop. You can look up sangoma if you want to know more but I was just scared to see all the muthi available for me at an asking price and the man at the counter asking me if I "wanted to be a sangoma." NO THANKS.

Second interesting thing: Today, we went to Isaiah Shembe's church, one of the many branches of African Christianity. Like most of the other versions of African-led Christian churches, it broke away from mission churches in the late 19th century because it perceived mission Christianity (not without cause but not 100% true either) as racist, hand-in-hand with colonialism, and out-for-a-profit. And also like the other African-led churches, it has grown like wildfire in the 20th century. I have pictures that I will post tomorrow, along with a lot more information.

Thursday, July 13, 2006

other clicks

For those who are dying to know (maybe Kim would want to know?) the clicks are signified by these letters:

By the way, these sound quite different from each other.


q already described in previous post
c tongue at front of teeth, like "tsk" except you suck backwards instead of forwards
x tongue to the side of your mouth

qh aspirated
ch
xh

nq nasalized
nc
nx

gq voiced
gc
gx

ngq nasalized AND voiced
ngc
ngx

Tongue Twisters in Zulu

This one is for Erik to try with Laura (and for Chris when he's bored or on the phone with Madison.)

Zulu is a language with 15 different kinds of clicks (really, there are just 3 clicks, but those clicks can be nasalized or aspirated or voiced or voiced AND nasalized). The easiest click for English-speakers to manage is signified by the letter "q." This is the click that we frequently made as kids. If you put your tongue at the roof of your mouth and then "cluck" or "click" it, so that there is a sudden popping sound, you are making the "q" sound. If you make the popping sound but follow it immediately with a strong breath (or air), you are aspirating it and making the "qh" sound.

I learned this tongue twister in class today. It has a lot of the "q" and "qh" clicks in it, so it's kind of fun. We could all do it but we failed miserably when it came to repeating it 5 times in succession quickly although our teacher, uBab'Nthangase, had a lot of fun doing it for us as quickly as possible. Oh, also, you should know that the second to last syllable is stressed in Zulu, so that when you are speaking, your tone comes down on the last syllable. For example, if you were to say the word "shivering," you would say it like this: "shivERing" or "baby" would be "BAby." The other letters may be pronounced slightly differently than we pronounce them in English, but don't worry about it. I can correct pronunciation when I return, if you've actually tried it.

So here's the tongue twister:

Iqaqa liqhaqhazela uqhoqhoqho.

If translated for its meaning, it means "the cat is purring" but literally translated word for word, it says "the cat shivers in the throat."

Don't forget, all those "q" letters MUST BE CLICKED. :-)

If anybody tries it, let me know how it goes.

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Picture of some of the women on this trip


Here I am with some of the other female students in the Fulbright-Hayes Group Project Abroad program. From left to right, they are: Nikki (from U. of Chicago); Abigail (from Johns Hopkins); me (from Stanford); Holly (from U. of Wisconsin); and Abby (from U. of Wisconsin).

Abby is answering her cell phone in this picture. It happened to be Chris, calling for me (a really nice July 7th present, since we had had some trouble getting in contact with each other that week). Of course, I couldn't hear a word he said because the connection was so bad, but I think he could hear me just fine.


I wish Dad could meet Abby (the one answering the cell phone). She often says she should have been a geologist and it's true. She's always thinking about soils and rocks and when we're driving along the road, she's always got a running commentary going on the landscape. She doesn't care if anybody is listening or not but she's talking about it. By the way, she's an environmental historian and is studying how the colonial government conceived and constructed space for blacks in the 20th century, which facilitated the spread of tuberculosis. She's the one I'm traveling with after the program is over--her and Alex, who is not pictured here. We're going to the Mozambique border, near the Tembe Elephant Reserve, and we will be staying with a husband and wife who call themselves Rhodesians (Rhodesia has not existed since 1980 and if you know a little bit about the history in this area, you will know that they are white simply by this fact) and who also speak fluent Zulu. Abby says they're a really interesting and kind couple but a little strange to boot.

Women of Eczabini


I didn't include this photo before but these are the women at Eczabini Homestead. The woman on the far left is making a grass mat for sleeping and the other two women are making the ropes that hold the grass roof of the hut together.

Monday, July 10, 2006





A traditional Zulu grass hut. This one is in the position (and size) to belong to the Great Wife, the first wife or the favorite wife.







Holly spreading cow dung on the floor of a traditional Zulu grass hut. We're inside the hut pictured just above this.











Jessica drinking utshwala, traditional sorghum beer.

Eczabini Homestead with Pix following

Eczabini was actually a really really interesting trip in a surreal kind of way. The man who greeted us in full Zulu costume at the homestead was white but I think he grew up around here and he speaks Zulu fluently. He was extremely knowledgeable but he's also clearly embracing a very New Age lifestyle, picking and choosing from different cultures as he sees fit, because although we saw the sort of "pure Zulu" homestead which they keep as an educational center, we also saw his personal hut, with the Hindu prayers. BUT, in his defense, KwaZulu Natal has the largest population of Indians outside of India, so it actually is a part of the local flavor and culture--however, I would venture to say that Zulus don't adopt it, whereas as a South African white who is living like Zulus in the rural areas, he probably feels more free to include whatever he wants.

However, the actual homestead that is used as an educational center seemed pretty spot on, from what I've read and how our teachers grew up.

He showed us around and told us a lot of really interesting things about how Zulus lived traditionally and how they live in the rural areas now. First, we were shown the cattle kraal, which occupies the central part of a homestead. Nguni cattle were and are extremely important to Zulu culture for a number of reasons.

First of all, they are a sign of wealth. Like many African cultures, wealth was carried in cattle, not in money or other acquisitions.

Second, they are an important source of food, especially milk.

Thirdly, cows are used for making muthi--medicine. Traditional healers frequently use Nguni cows (and they can't be the ordinary European cows imported here in the 19th century by colonialists) for healing rites. The slaughtering of a cow is an important connection to ancesters, and can be a request for help. The use of other cow parts, such as urine or bile, may be used to break curses laid on an individual by other sangomas. (For example, if a young woman is jealous of another woman, she may lay a curse on the other woman. In order to break the curse, the young woman who was so cursed will undergo an important ceremony, involving not only teh slaughtering of an Nguni cow, but also perhaps drinking the bile until the regurgitates and the spirits that are plaguing her leave.) (I have a lot more to say about cattle in Zulu culture historically. When the British colonized Natal, and later Zululand, during the 19th century, they broke the backs of the amaXhosa and amaZulu by destroying their cattle and robbing them of this wealth. It's actually a very very interesting historical study, which you may read more about if you read any of the papers I write in the next year. :-)

Fourthly, and perhaps most importantly, since they form the basis of lobola, they are important in making and keeping connections between family. Marriage in many African cultures is a relationship between clans and families. The exchange of cattle from the husband's familiy to the wife's family is a gift so that the children she bears belong to the husband's family. If there is no exchange of cattle (and other gifts), then the children belong to the wife's family. The exchange of cattle is called lobola. In today's South Africa, lobola is a real problem. In the mid 19th century, the British colonial official in charge of Native Affairs, Theophilus Shepstone (who is very important in my research, by the way) set the number of cattle at 11 for ordinary girls and 15 for the daughters of chiefs. That is the minimum number of cattle you can offer BY LAW (though a parent could ask for more.) You CANNOT get married without exchanging lobola. Currently, there is a lot of talk and negotiation to try and change this law but it is complicated. In the meantime, it takes a very long time for people to acquire the money to pay the lobola. (Under the apartheid system, it was virtually impossible. In addition, apartheid laws were designed to keep men as migrant workers living separately from their families so that mining corporations etc. did not have to pay a man a living wage that could maintain a family as well.) Thus, many many many men and women start having their families long before they are married; rarely do they live together--they simply start their families and after ten or twenty years, the man completes the lobola payment and then they get married. I have a lot more to say about this but not now.

OK. So I already knew all of that that I wrote above but at the homestead, we learned why kraals are circular. There are no corners in Zulu culture, according to this man, because corners are where spirits linger. It is also were snakes and other creatures can hide but if a homestead is built in a circular manner, they are less likely to find places where they can curl up. Interesting--I'd like to find out more about that. We learned how the Zulu spread a thin layer of cow dung on the floor (which has a lot of antiseptic properties, by the way), and we saw how the women made the bed mats, and how they thatched the grass roofs, and a typical altar to the ancestors. We got to taste utshwala, which is traditional sorghum beer (has about 1-2% alcohol content, by the way, so Utah state has nothing on traditional Zulu alcohols). (If you're interested in alcohol in history and in African culture, I wrote a paper about this last May, so I also have a lot to say about it historically, as it was used as a means by government to control African labor in the late 19th century all the way through the apartheid era. Thus, protests and riots that centered around alcohol--especially traditional sorghum beer brewed by Zulu women--were part of the anti-colonial and anti-apartheid protests of the 20th century.) Anyway, it tasted kind of like a thick and sort of sour wine. I could really like it if I had enough time to get used to it.

All-right, pictures follow.

Eczabini Homestead with Pix following

Eczabini was actually a really really interesting trip in a surreal kind of way. The man who greeted us in full Zulu costume at the homestead was white but I think he grew up around here and he speaks Zulu fluently. He was extremely knowledgeable but he's also clearly embracing a very New Age lifestyle, picking and choosing from different cultures as he sees fit, because although we saw the sort of "pure Zulu" homestead which they keep as an educational center, we also saw his personal hut, with the Hindu prayers. BUT, in his defense, KwaZulu Natal has the largest population of Indians outside of India, so it actually is a part of the local flavor and culture--however, I would venture to say that Zulus don't adopt it, whereas as a South African white who is living like Zulus in the rural areas, he probably feels more free to include whatever he wants.

However, the actual homestead that is used as an educational center seemed pretty spot on, from what I've read and how our teachers grew up.

He showed us around and told us a lot of really interesting things about how Zulus lived traditionally and how they live in the rural areas now. First, we were shown the cattle kraal, which occupies the central part of a homestead. Nguni cattle were and are extremely important to Zulu culture for a number of reasons.

First of all, they are a sign of wealth. Like many African cultures, wealth was carried in cattle, not in money or other acquisitions.

Second, they are an important source of food, especially milk.

Thirdly, cows are used for making muthi--medicine. Traditional healers frequently use Nguni cows (and they can't be the ordinary European cows imported here in the 19th century by colonialists) for healing rites. The slaughtering of a cow is an important connection to ancesters, and can be a request for help. The use of other cow parts, such as urine or bile, may be used to break curses laid on an individual by other sangomas. (For example, if a young woman is jealous of another woman, she may lay a curse on the other woman. In order to break the curse, the young woman who was so cursed will undergo an important ceremony, involving not only teh slaughtering of an Nguni cow, but also perhaps drinking the bile until the regurgitates and the spirits that are plaguing her leave.) (I have a lot more to say about cattle in Zulu culture historically. When the British colonized Natal, and later Zululand, during the 19th century, they broke the backs of the amaXhosa and amaZulu by destroying their cattle and robbing them of this wealth. It's actually a very very interesting historical study, which you may read more about if you read any of the papers I write in the next year. :-)

Fourthly, and perhaps most importantly, since they form the basis of lobola, they are important in making and keeping connections between family. Marriage in many African cultures is a relationship between clans and families. The exchange of cattle from the husband's familiy to the wife's family is a gift so that the children she bears belong to the husband's family. If there is no exchange of cattle (and other gifts), then the children belong to the wife's family. The exchange of cattle is called lobola. In today's South Africa, lobola is a real problem. In the mid 19th century, the British colonial official in charge of Native Affairs, Theophilus Shepstone (who is very important in my research, by the way) set the number of cattle at 11 for ordinary girls and 15 for the daughters of chiefs. That is the minimum number of cattle you can offer BY LAW (though a parent could ask for more.) You CANNOT get married without exchanging lobola. Currently, there is a lot of talk and negotiation to try and change this law but it is complicated. In the meantime, it takes a very long time for people to acquire the money to pay the lobola. (Under the apartheid system, it was virtually impossible. In addition, apartheid laws were designed to keep men as migrant workers living separately from their families so that mining corporations etc. did not have to pay a man a living wage that could maintain a family as well.) Thus, many many many men and women start having their families long before they are married; rarely do they live together--they simply start their families and after ten or twenty years, the man completes the lobola payment and then they get married. I have a lot more to say about this but not now.

OK. So I already knew all of that that I wrote above but at the homestead, we learned why kraals are circular. There are no corners in Zulu culture, according to this man, because corners are where spirits linger. It is also were snakes and other creatures can hide but if a homestead is built in a circular manner, they are less likely to find places where they can curl up. Interesting--I'd like to find out more about that. We learned how the Zulu spread a thin layer of cow dung on the floor (which has a lot of antiseptic properties, by the way), and we saw how the women made the bed mats, and how they thatched the grass roofs, and a typical altar to the ancestors. We got to taste utshwala, which is traditional sorghum beer (has about 1-2% alcohol content, by the way, so Utah state has nothing on traditional Zulu alcohols). (If you're interested in alcohol in history and in African culture, I wrote a paper about this last May, so I also have a lot to say about it historically, as it was used as a means by government to control African labor in the late 19th century all the way through the apartheid era. Thus, protests and riots that centered around alcohol--especially traditional sorghum beer brewed by Zulu women--were part of the anti-colonial and anti-apartheid protests of the 20th century.) Anyway, it tasted kind of like a thick and sort of sour wine. I could really like it if I had enough time to get used to it.

All-right, pictures follow.

Saturday, July 08, 2006

Washerwoman




This photo is sideways (sorry!!!!). This man was playing Bob Marley's "No Woman No Cry" during the entire time I was at the waterfall (see below), which is one of my favorite Bob Marley songs. I gave him a couple of rands before I left. He has a strange little do-dad-guy attached to his guitar or his legs that moves its arms up and down while he plays (you can see it in front). This little girl was really fascinated.




We were visiting local attractions and this is a waterfall just outside of Pietermaritzburg. If you look closely, you'll see that just above the waterfall, a lot of women are washing their clothes. This is something that would probably not be allowed in the U.S. but added a lot of local flavor to the waterfall.
Here's Holly McGee, locked out of her room and trying to pick the lock with a nail file. It didn't work and she spent the night on the hard floor in my room, with only a blanket and no pillow. Poor Holly. Oh, for reasons my family will understand, I called Holly McGee MOLLY for the first week I knew her.











Some belated photos--here I am in London with Vaughn Love, one of my buddies on this trip. She goes to the University of Indiana. I've been hanging out mostly with her and Holly.

Friday, July 07, 2006

Another 4th of July post on July 7th

We went to Durban today to attend a VIP party that had something to do with the U.S. Embassy. Everyone there was some sort of diplomat. Don't ask me anymore than that because I don't know. The Director or Ambassador or whatever his title was gave a moving speech in Zulu, which he clearly read, but he was still better than all of us because there wasn't a 15-second pause inbetween each word while he figured out what to say next....

Tomorrow we're going to Ecazabini Homestead (http://www.aatravel.co.za/viewaccom.jsp?code=058148) (http://pmb-midlands.kzn.org.za/pmb-midlands/about/96.xml). I'll try to post pictures from today's party etc tomorrow.

Finally got to talk to Chris today. It's been hit and miss. We had different times, bad phone cards, and, evidently, the wrong phone number. Whoops. He's moving to San Bruno today. Safe travelling, Chris.

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Zulu Mass & Virginity Testing

JULY 3rd

I will try to get more pictures up on the web soon because I wanted to tell everybody about the virginity testing ceremony that I went to last week (the day after my birthday) but I don't have the pictures for it available yet. (Just so that nobody gets nervous, yes, there is some nudity involving breasts but there are no pictures of the actual testing. Besides, I wasn't there for the testing anyway.)

VIRGINITY-TESTING CEREMONY

Just so it's clear to everybody who reads this post--I do not have an opinion on these ceremonies. I am neither horrified nor am I jubilant. I don't know what I think and even if I did know what I think I would refrain from expressing it.

A brief infobite about the mass virginity testing that occurs annually in KwaZulu-Natal: The virginity testing ceremonies began in 1996 as a way to prevent the spread of HIV by encouraging young women to remain virgins until they marry. The 3-day ceremony involves dancing, singing, feasting, and the testing of the virgins, who are then awarded certificates of virginity. The families of the young women who are not found to be virgins are often fined, and other repercussions may occur but I don't know what they are so I can't tell you. Testing starts at puberty. Certainly, I can attest that many of the young women looked like little boys to me--i.e., they had no breasts to speak of. The feasting and singing is a testimony/prayer/promise to the Zulu god of fertility, and it is widely believed that the Zulu are resurrecting an ancient rite. From what I understand, documents from about 300 years ago do not record such a rite--so the tradition appears to be manufactured rather than resurrected.

This testing is voluntary, not mandatory. But it is controversial, partly because of the fine, partly because of the concept, partly because the girls are so young. It is now illegal to test girls who are younger than sixteen--but they certainly did it last weekend from what I observed. I might add that the girls who participate are frequently from Christian families so the controversy doesn't appear to be religious. I saw crosses on several of the girls as well as rosary beads and my professor told me that most Christians who send their girls to be tested do not see a contradiction between their Christian faith and this rite that is dedicated to the Zulu goddess of fertility.

We arrived on Saturday morning--the other Zulu students and my professors here at the university. In addition to the future Zulu king and his brother, we were the only observers there. My professors have been coming to this for years because it is their former student who created/resurrected the tradition. We sat at a long table in a tent in front of the young women and ate fruit and some root vegetables that I can't identify but were potato-like. Evidently in past years, there were several thousand young women there but this year, because of recent controversies over the testing, there were only about 300. But I can say that the 300 who were there--some from as far as Swaziland and Cape Town--were overwhelming enough. I asked the guys who were with us later how they felt about it and they said that within ten minutes, they were saturated with breasts and they didn't even notice them anymore and it become simply normal. Most of the young women wore only a very short white beaded skirt that came to about the middle of their buttocks. Some wore underwear and some wore thongs (I'm guessing they weren't completely naked). Many also wore a necklace of some sort. They looked beautiful. And they didn't appear ashamed even though there were the four men of our group with us. I wonder if it's partly safety in numbers? It was funny to see cell phones tucked in the waists of some girls' skirts.

For several hours, the girls danced and sang in front of us. They gave speeches about how great it was to be a virgin (all in isiZulu or amaXhosa.) They sang about the women who would have sex for twenty cents or less. One group did a competition where they lifted their right leg above their head while standing on their left leg and then stomped their right leg on the ground in rhythm. I can't describe it but I could never in a million years do it. It was beautiful.

At some point, we were introduced one by one. By the way, there are thirteen of us. Those girls went wild over the four men in our midst, especially Jarell, a young African-American man who is admittedly very tall and handsome. They stomped and screamed for him until the young woman who was m.c.-ing the dance/singing competition cut them short. But then she said she wanted to marry him and she ran over to if he would say yes. Jarell was saved by another young women shouting that she wanted to marry him, too, and the second young woman ran up and put a bead necklace around his neck. So he didn't have to answer. It was kind of crazy. Jarell says it was the highlight of his life, when he had three hundred naked women stomping and going crazy over him. Ironic that this would happen at a ceremony celebrating virginity. :-)

CATHOLIC MASS

I went to mass yesterday with my Zulu family. I don't have a lot to say except it was 3 hours long, the singing was incredible!, and everybody noticed I was there because I was the only white face in the crowd. The priest welcomed me specifically in Zulu but my Zulu ain't that great yet because I wondered why three hundred people were staring out the window just behind my head and turned to look myself until my sister Khosi whispered, "He's saying to you, 'Thank you for coming.'"

My Zulu is getting better but the only reason I recognized what was going on was because it followed the same basic order of mass everywhere else, only we sang a lot more. I told my family they would be disappointed if they came to a U.S. mass. They would miss the five-part-harmony.

I'll try to post pictures tomorrow.